Dont cry for me Argentina!

Not that easy to get internet all the time, but this is what happened so far:

 we found a mechanic in Osorno that knows BMW F650s inside out so he wasnt surprised to hear that my waterpump had a leak (after just 20,000km by the way). Aparently it is all because of a design fault of the seal… anyway, we got it changed and all works well now…

 we continued our trip – but not straight south as initially planned through Chile, but we went east into Argentina. Absolutely amazing! The border crossing is in the middle of a National Park. Heaps of lakes here and big mountains all around. Got the feel of Taupo – just everything is so much bigger. Furtther east you can just drive and drive and drive and there is nothing! No houses, no other cars, no signs of civilisation… BUT there is WIND – a lot of it!!! Aparently it is the trade wind that is coming from the west, but when you ride your bike it is coming from all directions, or at least that is how it feels like. Wind speed is approximately 100 km/h – when it is blowing from the rear it is like riding in a big vacuum, you can even stand up and there is no wind knocking you around. if it comes from the side you ride your bike as if you would go through a hairpin corner and it is very tiring riding a bike in a lean all the time. we figured if you move your weight to the side of the wind you can keep the bike upright and you just hang there like a little monkey on it. it looks very funny, but fun it is not. but the worst is if you ride straight into it – take the 100km/h wind speed plus the speed of your bike (another 100km/h) so it feels like your are trying to beat Burt Monroes reckord with heaps of speed wobbles and your helmet gets beaten around all the time. Discovered muscles in my neck I thought they do not exist…

 Anyway, we made it all the way to the Atlantic Ocean – never saw it from this side… We stayed in Rada Tilly last night. Tried to leave early southwards, but Jeffs KTM had some trouble. Actually the whole clutch lever came off, so looks like we will stay here for a while to get a spare part.

 Being on the road is great. It feels like a slow transformation into something else… something very smelly by the way. Since we are camping all the time there is not always a shower at hand and you really lower your standards when it comes to bathrooms and stuff. Your nose kinda adjusts and in the end you are more concerned about getting some food and where to pitch your tent then anything else. Hmmm, and the Chilenean wine is just superb! Very nice Malbec… hmmmm… And they proof that you dont have to pay at least NZ$20 to get a decent bottle of wine. With 6 dollars you are already a happy camper!

 The sheepskin really works too… however, when doing more than 300km a day you can really feel your bottom. Wonder if I should have spend the extra money on a gel seat or something…

 All in all it is a very steep learning curve. You figure pretty quick what kind of gear works and what not. it is always good to compare notes and see what the other guys are using. one thing is for sure – i brought heaps too much stuff. the key would be to travel as light as possible. next time, if it doesnt fit into the dry bag i wont take it. also, having a givi top case is very nice in the city, but going on gravel roads and dirt i am now very worried that this thing will selfdestruct itself in a few more 1000 kms. lets see.

 By the way, I´ve done more than 3000km if South American roads by now. The rear tyre wears faster than I thought. Next time I will get a different rubber – maybe the Metzeler Enduro 3 or something like that… (if I can find one).

 The people over here are super nice and always helpful. Wish I had learned more Spanish though. Some things are quite different though. Nothing happens in a hurry (like Pacific Islands style), shops close for lunch between 1 and 4 pm (which is super annoying, because you can bet your money that you will allways arrive at the shop just after 1pm) and restaurants are empty until 10pm. then everything comes to life and people start going out from 2am onwards. Wonder when these folks sleep, or maybe they just dont go to work. Whatever.

 Food is very yummy too. Its great looking at the menu and you have no idea what you order. Montezuma stayed at home so far, so I guess my stomach has adjusted well without bigger problems.

 Next time I will probably write from Ushuia at the bottom of the continent. If we get the spare parts for the KTM we will probably there in less than a week or so.

 Until next time…

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One thought on “Dont cry for me Argentina!

  1. Hmm..smelly aye? Not sure if NZ Customs will let you back into the country in that state! You gotta love a country that takes nanna-naps and parties from 2am onwards *L*. Paradise!

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